One wouldn’t be wrong to presume the phrase ‘bang for your buck’ was the invention of a creative Kannadiga who, after his first sip of filter coffee, pronounced it the best drink money can buy. The chicory-flavoured drink’s genealogy traces to beans (from Yemen) that Sufi saint Baba Budan is said to have planted in Karnataka’s Chikkamagaluru around the 17th century.
With its addictive ‘mellower than espresso but with pleasant tasting notes’ flavour, filter coffee has unknowingly assumed the form of a time-tested ritual that prequels the morning chaos in most South Indian homes. Bengaluru is no different; with almost every cafe on the bend promising to deliver its best take on the cult favourite.
So, forgive us for not relying on an internet compilation to find you the best haunts for filter kaapi (the South India phonetic rendering of the word ‘coffee’). Instead, we turned to chefs and foodies to quiz them on where they get their hands on the caffeinated magic.
1. Indian Coffee House
When telling the tale of the ancestry of filter coffee, one would call it sacrilege to do so without a nod to Indian Coffee House. Steeped in legacy, the brand’s diverse branches have long served as vibrant addas (Bengali for ‘hangouts’) for poets, filmmakers, and creative minds over the decades.
Take a long hard look at your glass, a stage for froth and flavour. It is a testament to the money and muscle that went into creating the ‘India Coffee Board Worker’s Co-operative Society’ in 1957.
Breakfast here has been a Sunday morning treat for many in the city and its outskirts. So also in the case of home chef Fathima Banu (owner of @ladyandladle on Instagram). “When I was little, Bengaluru did not have as many malls. We’d have to go to bed early so dinners weren’t an option.” So, Fathima found herself eagerly anticipating outings to Indian Coffee House. “I still cherish those memories.”
2. Central Tiffin Room
For many, the benne masala dosa (a buttery crepe variety) at Central Tiffin Room paired with a drink of filter coffee is almost a boomerang of nostalgia. The eatery incepted in the 1920s has witnessed the ownership change hands, but the Maddur vada (crispy street snack made with rice flour and semolina) and Mangalore bajji (fluffy fritters) are proof that kitchen secrets have remained a constant.
For many, seeking out CTR’s breakfast — where the protagonist is its filter coffee — necessitates a pilgrimage from one end of the city to the other. But chef Manu Chandra, founder-partner of Manu Chandra Ventures (Lupa & Single Thread Bespoke catering) is up for the detour.
“It [CTR] is an example of a timeless space that serves consistently great cups every time. My visits to CTR are fond memories of 2010 when one could simply drive down just around the time they opened for business in the mornings. It certainly was a calmer Bangalore!”
For many, CTR’s filter coffee is an indispensable hug; a morning must-have. So, when chef Chandra failed to find cafes that could parallel the flavour and quality of CTR’s kaapi, the only resort was an excursion. “I’ve even mulled opening my own filter coffee joint!” he jokes (he could well be serious).
3. Namma
If there’s one thing that could rattle the otherwise composed chef Nishant Kumar Choubey, it is a morning without coffee. The Delhi-based celebrity chef consultant takes his filter coffees very seriously. And his next claim ensures we do too, “At my house, we have Thanksgiving Coffee, not turkey!”
Revealing a spot in Bengaluru that has surpassed his expectations, he points to Namma in Jayanagar. Though deceptively simple, the coffee at Namma hits the spot; one could chance a guess at the reason — handchurning or the magic of A2 milk from desi cows. You’re close. Chef Nishant reveals the answer, “The best part about Namma is they pick up beans from the local yard. One can feel the aroma from afar once they are roasted.”
4. Taaza Thindi
A 10-minute drive (recalculate keeping Bengaluru traffic in mind) from Namma, lies an eatery which is almost a remnant of the city’s darshini (local no-frills eatery) culture. You cannot miss it; the swarms of people at Taaza Thindi will serve as your GPS.
Against the backdrop of luxury cafes that have mushroomed across the city where elegance and opulence lay the table, there are eateries like Taaza Thindi where pretence is left at the door as piping hot trays of South Indian fare find their way to hungry stomachs.
Here, a filter coffee’s best friends are the masala dosa and kesari bath (a sweet dish made with semolina). It is said that a filter coffee’s mark of fame is finding acclaim in a tea aficionado. So, when Amritsar-born chef Vikas Seth mentioned he loves the place, we aren’t arguing.
The Culinary Director, Embassy Leisure, Bengaluru, shares, “Whenever family or friends visit us in Bangalore, a trip to Taaza Thindi is a must as their fluffy idlis (savoury rice cake), crispy dosas (South Indian pancake) and classic filter coffee create a quintessential South Indian experience that’s unforgettable. It’s a true taste of Bangalore!”
5. Konark Vegetarian Restaurant
In the three decades they have been operational, Konark’s exquisite menu, focused on vegetarian selections, has delighted its patrons. “We want to give the traditional and real South Indian cuisine without any compromise on the food. For example, our sambar (lentil-based vegetable stew) preparation is based on an old traditional family recipe,” explained the owner Rama Murthy.
So also the filter coffee has found favour with many. Among them is Anisha Rachel Oommen, founder and editorial director, Goya (an award-winning food and culture publication from the Indian subcontinent).
“I always enjoy the coffee at Konark; they’ll make it extra strong on request. This used to be our spot for Sunday morning breakfasts after church. We were a big group — my parents, cousins, aunts — and would order a massive breakfast: masala dosas, khara bath (savoury breakfast dish), rava dosa (crispy fried crepe made with semolina) and filter coffees all around.”
6. Rameshwaram Cafe
Not only are the foodies of Bengaluru captivated by the fare at this South Indian trademark; but it even left Gary Mehigan (of MasterChef Australia) impressed.
Mehigan took to social media to proclaim his love for his hearty breakfast, saying, “Well, that was a ‘proper’ dosa. Love this place @therameshwaramcafe. We ate ragi dosa, ghee roast dosa, medu vada, ghee idli podi, kesari baath and some seriously great filter coffee! I’ll be back.”
7. Koshy’s
“The beans in every single batch are personally inspected either by me, my brother or our manager and roasted to our requirements,” owner Prem Koshy once pointed out. Is this careful scrutiny from where the coffee at Koshy’s borrows its finesse? Prem adds, “It’s the blended filter of brass, bronze, and nickel that gives the coffee the ultimate touch.”
As the first air-conditioned restaurant in South India, Koshy’s has grown alongside Bengaluru, embodying the same rich, time-honoured cultures.
So, stop by some weekend. Let the cane chairs, gingham-covered tables, and legacy filter coffee delight you.
Edited by Pranita Bhat
